2010: a good time to come to Mexico

2010 starts the countdown to Mexico's bicentenial, an all out biggest ever celebration and, for Mexico, that says a lot. Actually there are two celebrations: 200 years of freedom from Spain and then another 100 years since the Mexican Revolution. All of this history is explained here  Plans are afoot for all kinds of exciting nationwide events and tours. It's a good time to be here.

My friend Robin from Baltimore was here last week to catch the tail end of the holidays. She was delayed because of the blizzard that closed in the airport the day before she was to fly down. She finally got here and we celebrated several days together. The big one was last night in the jardin. She has been wanting to know how come she wasn't on my list of people in Baltimore to whom I sent ecards for the holidays. The answer is because I knew I would be dedicating this post to her.

Vaya con dios Robin and Esme. We will see you in the Spring. In the meantime, Robin, you can have these memories of the moments you spent in the jardin in San Miguel on New Year's Eve 2010

Click to enlarge or miss the fun

welcoming 2010: living in a dream world

Please click to enlarge or you will miss the full flavor.

On New Year's Eve at about 6:30, I heard some chanting on the street. Now what?, I thought. Since San Jorge is a very noisy street, I almost ignored it. However, when I peeked out of my bedroom window, I was awestruck  There beneath me was a glorious Felliniesque moment (he always seems to have a presence here when colorful, unusual things happen.)

I saw a  procession with beautiful torches, many old women carrying candles, a beautiful santo encased in a glass "cage' surrounded by red velvet  carried by clergy in full dress. In short, a photographer's dream.

There is an old photography saying: by the time you see it, it's too late. I figured I would just post a blank picture and describe what could have been. But that deep creative spirit that will never let me rest, spoke up and said:"You idiot. What are you waiting for? Grab your camera and go forth and find them." And so I did.

 I located them a few blocks away and followed them. Altars were set up in various locations on streets around the colonia (hood). They were lovely, with white flowers and white curtain backdrops on tables outside of a home or tienda. Overhead, white and yellow decorations were strung from one side of the street to the other. The magic was enhanced by the glow from muted street lights, candles, and beautiful brass and glass lanterns. and the heady aroma of copal incense.

As I approached the procession, people were in the midst of a prayer...everyone on their knees on the hard, uneven rocks of the street. One thing I have learned from following the rituals of my neighborhood: the Catholics of Mexico must have tough knees.Out of respect, I got on my knees as I tried to capture this beauty...but could hardly stand the pain so instead I did a half knee thing. No matter: the experience was magical...like being thrust into a world beyond time.

Later I will post San Miguel's answer to Times Square. Right now, it's time for yet another party. Would you believe?

nochebuena/ christmas eve

To Give is To Receive

Whew! What a day December 24 has been. First on the agenda was a huge effort by So Others May Eat, Mexico to feed hundreds of elderly people. The food and help were overflowing. It was heartwarming  to see so many ancianos (elderly) whom I pass on sidewalks everyday gathered together. They left with bags of food and other treats. My beautiful friend Bea Aaronson was one of the team of helpers. The above image captures the feeling of so many between those helping and being helped.

Agnes Olive, a True Joy to the World

Next stop. Another group of friends were carolling around the jardin and I captured that joyous moment. (A small aside, Agnes is my landlady.) Then it was off to the last posada in my colonia. That turned out to be the best gift of the day. Stay tuned for more about that later...

Right now it's Christmas Day and I'm off to Christmas lunch and then dinner with friends. San Miguel is a busy place. It's hard to stay thin here. (Excuse)

catching the dead on their way out

I missed it all. Everything. But last night in a last ditch effort to see something, anything, I wandered to the jardin after the Santa Fe Photography Workshop presentation. By that time, the night had become chilly to the bone. I looked through the darkness, lit by the light of the full moon, the food vendors and the usual night lights around the square, for a glimpse of an altar or some costumes still floating around...but no, nothing. What I glimpsed instead was the clean-up crew packing up crates. The marigolds,  so glorious a few hours prior, now lay strewn on the street...common litter, waiting to be hauled away. So I thought, "Ok. Work with what you've got. Let's immortalize the last marigolds of 2009." The marigold is THE flower for El Dia de los Muertos. For its meaning and all altar symbols, consult our local Atencion newspaper here

fellini move over

If our little community in the sky has a cherished wise and wonderful elder, it is our dear Rachel (see her YouTube here)
She made sure this birthday would not go by without a proper celebration. And so the festivities began at sunset on her beloved rooftop overlooking the neighborhood church in Colonia San Antonio.While we were basking in its glow, Vivian, who shares this same birth date, commented, " If I were to see this view in a travel magazine, I would think to myself: 'I have to go to there. It's so beautiful'." We knew what she meant. We all felt so privileged to be caught up in this surreal splendor. Fellini could not have done it better.

backfile: a fair visit II

Playing for Jesus

What caught my eye at the fair were the juxtapositions like those pictured here of the sacred and "profane." . It is these seeming incongruities which give the Mexican culture its overwhelming richnesss and color.

A Tale of Two Women

backfile: a fair visit

Just as the city prepares to celebrate the huge festival of its partron saint, Archangel San Miguel, and the Jewish Community is in the midst of the High Holy Days, just to keep things hopping, the fair comes to town for  a week or so. It's carnival atmosphere calls to those of us who love the surreal ambiance of so many Mexican events.

Kids on Bungee Cables
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Our Lady Anchored by Mexcal

backfile: tuesday market visit

Our Lady of Guadalupe is everywhere at all times.

While ideas for this blog have been fermenting, I have been shooting lots of photographs. For the next few days, I’ll be posting backfiles of various fiestas and meanderings around the town. Today…a visit to the Tuesday market.